London

Today almost everyone revisiting the metropolis after a number of years is amazed how many restaurants and cafés cater for customers outside, if only with a few tables and chairs under a canopy. Cosy Italian trattorias, French brasseries, restaurants with the fashionable 'new British' cuisine and ice-cream parlours (a relatively new type of venue) with open-air sections can be found all over, especially in Covent Garden, Chelsea, Hampstead, the royal gardens and on the river bank. During long summer days it's best to spend the least amount of time on the underground, and if there is a chance to go on foot to places you want to visit. The underground is no one's dream even in winter, but in summer it is literally hell when on certain lines the temperature reaches 35 degrees. Speaking of the tube, it's worth finding the most reasonably priced tickets, either taking the intelligent Oyster Card or waiting patiently until 9.30 in the morning to buy a Travelcard for the day, which is valid until dawn the following morning, entitling you to unlimited travel in zones 1-2 on the underground, buses and the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) in East London. The difference is considerable. A trip 'normally' costing £4 can be £1.50 with a discount. Though remember ... take a small bottle of water when you travel on the underground!

There can be only a few cities in the world which provide as much information for tourists on foot as does London. Wherever you go nearly every other building is considered 'special'. Blue plaques tell you who or what it is noted for, which beautiful church was designed by Sir Christopher Wren or which mews dates from the 16th century. If you'd rather not trust it to chance and would like a professionally guided tour you can turn to London Walks (www.walks.com), which takes you on strolls organised geographically or thematically to a different location each day for £5-7 per person. However, for no fee at all I'm prepared to reveal one of my family's favourite routes, which is by no means strenuous.

The ultra-modern Westminster underground station is the starting point. A spectacular view in both directions can be had from the bridge of the same name. To the east St. Paul's Cathedral, and further away the tallest building in Britain, 1 Canada Square, dominating the office district of Canary Wharf attract the eye. Passing by the huge former County Hall, today already with a multi-functional role, it's worth stopping first at the giant wheel, the London Eye, and then the South Bank Centre, renowned for its music, theatre and exhibitions. The beautifully renovated Royal Festival Hall in the complex, which still retains its 1951 appearance, was reopened last year. Don't miss the terrace, even if you haven't bought concert tickets or have no inclination to see one of the regular free events. Although a turn on the wheel costs £15.50,  London Eye provides the best panorama of the city. Otherwise it's difficult to find a public or at least affordable viewing point because of restrictions due to the continuing danger of terrorism.

Proceeding on an uninterrupted promenade towards Tower Bridge, the next stop is Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, which was recreated from donations in 1997 in Tudor style with a theatre, education centre and museum. The Globe stands on Bankside, between Blackfriars Bridge and Southwark Bridge. This year's programme reflects the bard's versatility - from King Lear searching the deepest mysteries of the human soul, through his wittiest and tempestuous comedy,  Midsummer Night's Dream, to one of his most ruthless satires, Timon of Athens. Standing places, which best recall the original atmosphere, cost only £5 (www.shakespeares-globe.org/theatre). In front of the slightly Disneyland-like, but faithful to the original, wooden thatched theatre building, clowns, mimers, sword-swallowers and other performers entertain crowds throughout the day.

Beyond Blackfriars Bridge and still by the river there's a compulsory London sight - the Tate Modern. The gallery with its 20th and 21st century collection is housed in a disused electric power station, a listed building converted at the turn of the millennium. The view from here is also splendid and if you happen to need to get to the other side of the river you can quickly reach St. Paul's Cathedral across the formerly unsteady, today stable Millennium Bridge. Walking on the left side you approach Tower Bridge, which is increasingly becoming a spectacular sight (tourists with an interest in technology are advised to visit the incredibly interesting exhibition at the top of the bridge), and the flair of city planners is noteworthy in the versatile reutilisation of the Victorian docklands. Besides the old Tower of London, one of the city's main attractions housing the must-see Crown Jewels, sights are plentiful on both sides of the bridge. While the visitor struggles with the abundance of choice to the south, like where to sit down in British guru Sir Terence Conran's design and culinary empire with a splendid riverside panorama, reaching the other side, the culmination of rehabilitation, the St. Catherine Docks presents a real surprise at the end of this short tour. Yachts, river barges and power boats sway on the water of the bay, which has an almost Mediterranean atmosphere. The Dickens, one of London's most popular pubs, highly ornamented with flower arrangements, can be found here, and although the great writer never set foot in the place, there's no reason why he couldn't have.

The profusion of cultural events is one of London's greatest attractions. Without doubt, the entrance tickets to some of the temporary exhibitions are remarkably expensive, but thanks to the Labour government, the leading art collections of the world, including the British Museum, the National Gallery, the Tate Britain, the Tate Modern and the Victoria & Albert Museum, not to mention enchanting collections left to the nation by generous patrons of the arts like Kenwood House in North London favoured for its Rembrandt portraits among others, and the Wallace Collection in Manchester Square behind Selfridges, where Frans Hals' Laughing Cavalier puts you in a cheerful disposition, can all be visited free of charge.

Similarly, enjoying a West End musical is also almost inseparable from a visit to London. Today the best tip for tourists who wish for something new, especially after the classics (The Phantom of the Opera or The Lion King, for example), is Marguerite, which has recently had its world premiere in the Royal Theatre Haymarket in the heart of the capital. The authors of the musical version of Les Misérables, Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel Schönberg, drew inspiration from the novel La Dame aux Camélias by Dumas, but set the story in occupied Paris during World War II. The love triangle is made up by Marguerite, the beautiful mistress, Otto, a high ranking German officer, keeper of the cocotte, and Armand, a young musician. The producers wanted to play safe not only with the story but also the music, since the composer is triple Oscar winner Michel Legrand (The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, Yentl, etc.) and the director is Jonathan Kent, regarded as one of Britain's greatest. The title role is played by leading British actress Ruthie Henshall.

Ticket prices for musicals have surged sky-high in recent years, reaching the psychological £60 limit. However, it's always worth checking out a characteristic feature of London, the TKTS discount ticket booth at Leicester Square, where from 10 a.m. it's possible, with some luck, to buy half-price tickets for the same day.

Veronika R. Hahn