Amsterdam Cityguide

The city is build on ninety tiny islands with 60 canals dividing them and more than fifty bridges joining them up again - a virtual patchwork quilt of a town. The narrow streets which run along the canals - where the bicycle rules OK - the typical low countries' architecture seems all so familiar and yet the mood of the place is inimitable. Soon you'll feel at home, casually calling the canals 'gracht' and confident that you know the bridge with the best view until, of course, you come across yet another one with a view even more marvellous than the last. All the time the backdrop seems to change with the altering light and the glittering reflections from the water. The canalside pavement cafes always seem to be full, weather permitting, and, anyway, the good citizens of Amsterdam aren't put off by a little rain either - it all adds to the atmosphere of the place.

Finding your way round with a guide book is not easy as your eye is always tempted from the pages to admire the real thing. Visit the Willet-Holthuyzen Museum at no. 605 Herengracht - the wealthy quarter - which has a splendid Dutch interior and a wonderful porcelain collection. It was built by Baron Hop in 1687, and then extended and improved continually until the end of the last century.

There are many palaces lining this canal as well as the Keizergracht, which is the next one along, while Prinsengracht is the site of Anne Frank's house and a sign outside one of the houses on Rotzengracht announces that Rembrandt died here. However the Singel is a completely different experience. This semi-circular canal is surrounded by a flower market with cheerful sunflowers, dew-laden tulips, fantastic plants, all so tempting for passers-by. Buy yourself some bulbs or seeds so that you can create a Dutch garden when you get back home. The place bustles, but it is nothing compared to what goes on in the central squares and streets like the Leiseplein and Rembrandtplein where there is a continual spectacle of buskers, acrobats and performers all jostling for position here. The main events take place in the late afternoon when jugglers and fire-eaters show off their skills. The audience applaud, noone hurries, the city's heart beats day and night but even so there is a sort of feeling of tranquillity about it.

Wander down side streets and enjoy the range of cuisine from around the world, Indonesian and Thai dishes next to stalls and restaurants offering food from India, Italy, Greece and France - nobody blinks an eye when the Russian harmonica player strikes up with Viennese operetta.

The Dutch are an 'open' nation not only tolerant of others but unashamed about their own lives. The tall narrow houses have no curtains, the lights beam out every night and nobody hides behind closed doors. As you go along you can make up stories about the people living in that elegant mansion or the anarchists living in the squat a few doors down - you would think that everything is on display. However, the private quarters of a house do not open onto the streets but are found at the back of the building and one sees the public space but not the private, as it were. Just like the public displays in the red light district, where women young and old, beautiful and ugly, fat and thin, parade behind the windows in their underwear, but when a customer enters the curtains are drawn tight.

Holland means Rembrandt, especially this year when the Rijksmuseum is celebrating its 200th anniversary. It has amassed such a huge collection that it is showing it in two parts, the second of which goes on show from October until the end of the year, exhibiting rarely seen engravings and drawings from Rembrandt's later period. But if you don't make it in time, there's no need to worry, the Rijks permanent collection includes works by Vermeer, Hals Jan Steen and you can always visit Rembrandt's House as well as the Van Gogh Museum to take in Holland's two most famous artists. Whatever time of year you go you won't be disappointed.

Júlia Szászi / Gábor Bodó