A few weeks ago I had a peculiar theatre experience. A Dutch-Hungarian company of three actors, drawing in the audience, played with the fictitious idea of what would happen if a tsunami overwhelmed Holland and the six million Dutch living there were all evacuated to Hungary. The presumption is, of course, absurd, but it was just right for showing that, apart from the usual commonplaces, Hungarians haven't got a clue about the Dutch. Of course, the latter don't know much about Hungarians either, though that is no excuse.
Amsterdam, you're wonderful!
While still at home before my departure I made up my mind to peep as much as possible behind the Amsterdam of the tourists during my three-day stay. I wanted to see what is hidden beyond the canals, the impressive little alleys, cyclists riding in long lines, the attractive and sensory effects of the orgy of scent and colour emanating from cheese shops, cafés and restaurants and whirling in the streets and squares. I immediately had my first positive experience at Amsterdam's airport, specifically in one of its basement toilets where, within minutes after landing, I could add some new information to my rather trivial view of the Dutch - they are environment conscious. The notice on the door proudly stated in two languages that I was about to enter an energy and water efficient, entirely environment- and user-friendly public convenience, cleaned with the exclusive use of natural materials. Wonderful! - I thought with some visible satisfaction on my face, and set off to ascertain whether the Dutch were really as progressive and modern thinkers as the airport toilets indicated.
The famous Dutch composure
While I was waiting for the hotel shuttle, I could not but notice a huge screen towering above the bus stops where idyllic pictures of dogs, cats, children and happy families befitting Benetton advertisements flickered back at me every second. Soft, calming music was coming from the loudspeakers and while I was pondering whether this was part of some image creation I didn't notice that I was actually waiting for nearly an hour before being able to get on the mini-bus, which otherwise ran every 6-7 minutes. Highlighting in practice the principles of rationality and maximum utilisation, those responsible for local logistics don't allocate tourists gathering for the buses according to their order of arrival, but to the laws of combination. By the time I managed to join a large Italian group it had become clear that the multi-media show did not represent an image-building component but a tool responsible for creating a pleasant atmosphere. Of course, the Dutch composure cannot be undermined. In vain are there many impatient and aggressive passengers, the Dutch go about their business with the best possible calm in a leisurely way, tackling those expressing indignation with the simple word "enjoy" and anyone worrying with warm and friendly glances. I admit it was nice to both see and feel that not only does the world not collapse if things do not revolve round our expectations, but that time initially presumed to be wasted and empty can even be enjoyed.
Commonplaces on the offensive
It can happen that you decide what to do to no effect and that if circumstances offer different opportunities it is wrong not to take them. For example, I would never have thought about spending my time in a cinema when visiting an unknown city for only three days. But that is what happened to me in Amsterdam. The beautiful Art Deco building of Pahé Tuschinski, with its decorated scrolls echoing Art Nouveau, at first only enticed me to its foyer, but then the active communal life - irrespective of age, gender, race and sexual affiliation - within the walls of the cinema enraptured me such that I was not able to resist staying to experience more. So I remained and went in to see a film along with middle aged couples, young men who had just got away from work, expectant mothers and lively elderly ladies. Although the next one and a half hours were spent in darkness with the intimacy of the film, I still had the lingering feeling of freedom, openness and informality. Well, I somehow cannot get rid of commonplaces. Making my way to the hotel I suddenly caught myself walking dreamily in a romantic mood and, bathed in the night lights of the canals among the 17th-century fairy-tale houses of Amsterdam, I browsed a map and a newly bought guidebook while munching a large portion of strawberries and cream. Although in no way did I abandon my original plan of trying to see beyond the surface and the curtainless windows of flats, dodging the pedestrian-unfriendly cyclists I had a creeping feeling that the attraction of Amsterdam was magnetic.
Canals galore
There is no getting away from it - Amsterdam is not called the Venice of the North by accident. Although the mere spectacle of the four main canals, the Prinsengracht, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Singel, is quite something, you have to experience the water at close quarters in order to really identify with the city. Naturally on a tourist boat there is not the same feeling of what it would be like going home every night to a rocking house-boat with a terrace, but at least you can see from a different perspective the city's daytime or mysterious night-time face, which, lit up, sparkles like a jewel. When the weather is pleasant, which is still rather rare in May, it's worth going by pedalo to discover the otherwise unapproachable canals. Allegedly, anyone who capsizes once in the cool water of a gracht is immediately destined to become an honorary citizen. I don't know whether this is really so, but it is a fact that those of my acquaintances whose partner is Dutch have had hands-on experience regarding Amsterdam being truly a city of waters.
The shopwindow city of the senses
Perhaps what I was most taken by in Amsterdam is its open self-revelation, how its residents lead their everyday lives. I have always been interested in what comprises a city's sensuality - its cuisine, loose morals or simply a natural acceptance and self-revelation, how its people live in their everyday existence. The same inconceivable sensuality is manifested in how the fishmonger at the corner shop sells raw herring sandwiches, how the shopwindow girls of the red-light district offer their charms immediately next-door to a middle-class milieu, or how the seemingly suffocating scent of the bustling night life enriched by a variety of perfumes mingles with the characteristic and somewhat burnt aroma of Oriental cuisine. 
Another commonplace - Amsterdam is arguably Europe's most tolerant city. Some think this is because the Dutch don't particularly care about anything other than a joint and football. Whether or not any of this holds water or all the above is a crude generalisation, we could all learn some 'lack of interest' from them in mentality and approach. Not the snooty type, rather that unshakable patience and calm which made a stout, jolly trader in the flea market sing an aria when he realised that the bicycle horn I had nearly paid for didn't work. He showed me there was a solution for everything.
Airport transfer
Amsterdam's airport is Schipol. From here you can reach the city by rail, a scheduled shuttle bus service taking passengers to different hotels, or taxi. The most price-efficient is the train, which goes to the Central Railway Station and costs approx. 4 euros. The shuttle service takes you to your hotel for 10.50 euros, while a taxi ride may cost even 35-40 euros.
Getting around in the city
By bicycle: The simplest and fastest method of transport, bicycles can be hired for even just a couple of hours at several points in the city. The average hire price is 8-15 euros a day. The most well-known hire firm is MacBike Amsterdam, which operates in 5 different places in the city centre, including the Central Station and Leidseplein.
Public transport: The local transport company, GVB, operates more than 40 tram and bus lines, ferries and the underground. All means of public transport can be used with the so-called Strippenkaart.
Markets
Albert Cuyp Market: One of Europe's most well-known and busiest open-air markets where everything can be found, from fresh vegetables and clothes to the most incredible objects. Here butchers even sell Hungarian Gyulai sausage and Pick salami. Among the nearly 300 stalls you can find lots of delicacies including fresh herrings, Dutch cheeses and Amsterdam's tastiest chips.
Northern Market (Noordermarkt): Situated in the neighbourhood of the Noorderkerk (Northern Church) in the cosy Jordaan district, this market is only open on Saturdays and is a source for second-hand books, clothes, bric-a-brac and flowers, as well as food including Dutch specialities.
Waterloo Square Market (Waterlooplein markt): A flea market exclusively for tourists. Here you can rummage through a variety of second-hand knick-knacks, souvenirs, books, records and items of furnishing.