Budapest

Do you still remember your first impression of Budapest?

Yes, I remember my first visit to Budapest very well. A colleague was changing jobs and to celebrate he invited a few friends and their wives away for the weekend. We decided to go somewhere none of us had visited before and soon settled on Budapest. It was a February and the sprinkling of snow was spread across the city's streets and squares, with snowflakes tumbling lightly on us as we explored all those fantastic sights.

After a while, we sought refuge from the cold in the magnificent market hall, and wondered at the mouthwatering and colourful displays of paprika in every way, shape and form imaginable, salamis, Tokaj wines and the like. Then coffee in the Café Gerbeaud just off Vörösmarty tér (Vörösmarty square), where time cannot have changed in half a century.

For dinner, we went somewhere outside the city centre - a restaurant in what looked like a village square where the music was as delicious as the food and wine. The highlight of the trip came the next day, when my wife and I took the wonderful underground train to Hősök Tere (Heroes' Square) and spent a glorious hour or so in the Széchenyi baths, luxuriating in the steaming warm water, heated by the natural springs, in the outdoor pools as the snow fell heavily on our heads. Magic. We weren't brave enough to do as the locals, though, and roll in the snow after our wallow!

That must have been three years ago now. Strange that I'd never been to Budapest before, but I must have returned at least a dozen times since for business or pleasure - most usually a combination of the two!

Do you prefer this city when you would like to relax or when you long for some excitement?

If only I had more chance to relax! More recently, it's been business trips, so not much time for that. Given the chance, I'd be back to those baths like a shot. Generally though the most I can manage is dinner in one of those wonderful restaurants and maybe a night cap in a bar.

What would you recommend for someone coming to Budapest for the first time?

Plan to stay longer than you originally intend. The baths are a must. Take the underground train. It's a historical trip in itself - but efficient, safe and great value at the same time. If you tire of the city, head out to one of the villages nearby. Szentendre is wonderfully quaint - a short cruise on the Danube in one direction and half an hour or less by taxi on the way back.

Have you discovered any hidden beauties in the city that you think probably not many visitors know?

If I told, it wouldn't be a secret any more! I'm sure that everyone finds something in Budapest that they would prefer not to share too widely.

How did you spend your best day or evening in Budapest?

I was lucky enough to be in Budapest on Hungary's national day when they mount a fabulous air show low over the Danube. I've never seen a Boeing 767 fly so low over any city as the Malev flagship that day - or seen a display of aerobotics like the Red Bull race team. To round it all off, the firework display over the river took your breath away.

Any warning you would give?

Take loose clothing and a good appetite - the food is excellent and the portions huge!

Did you leave out anything that you would like to see the next time you return?

More of those baths, more of the museums and galleries, more music, more of those wonderful old coffee bars... And it would be rude to say no to more Hungarian food, wine and beer!

How did you find the people here?

Friendly, fun and, fortunately for me, fantastic English speakers!

A. N.