Budapest

While waiting for the others, we can look around Roosevelt Square at the Pest end of the bridge. There's the Gresham Palace, today one of the city's most lavish hotels, a member of the Four Seasons' chain. Back in 1907 the Gresham insurance company commissioned the building for reasons of prestige, since there were rumours it was going bankrupt and so the company had a palace surpassing all imagination constructed at one of the busiest locations of the capital, in the process convincing clients that business was as usual. The decades went by, the palace was increasingly neglected and in the end only the enthusiastic or curious dared to venture inside to view the splendour under its arcades, which was enthralling even amidst its ruins. Today the Gresham is a five-star luxury hotel with a superb view, although curious enthusiasts no longer call in. The Academy of Sciences is the other jewel in the square. By the time the Gresham was built at the beginning of the 20th century the Academy had already weathered a few storms, since contemporary public opinion wasn't too taken with the building and its neo-Renaissance style.

So, when everyone has arrived let's walk across the Chain Bridge. It's the city's oldest bridge and thus it sometimes copes with 21st-century traffic only with some difficulty, but in 1849 when the bridge was inaugurated its two lanes perfectly satisfied the budding needs of a developing metropolis. The pride of the Chain Bridge is represented by its four lions, which generated a long and heated discussion about whether they had tongues, and if not whether that was in order. However, tongues or no tongues, the bridge spans the river proudly and majestically, and it withstands the strain of motor vehicles surprisingly well - something no one could have dreamt of when the bridge was constructed. There's a tunnel at the end of the bridge. Many Hungarian children have grown up convinced that the bridge is pushed in there for the night!

We've reached the Buda side, so let's turn right here, go down the steps and along the bank of the river under the chestnut trees. This is one of the most beautiful walks in Budapest, since the foliage makes the promenade cool in the heat and romantic in the evening. You won't have brought your sweetheart in vain! We'll head straight towards Margaret Bridge, but just keep clear of the bicycle lane, otherwise incessant ringing behind your back will be the response.

If you've no fear of heights, let's sit for a while on the stone wall and admire the river and the pleasure boats, passing by in constant succession in summer, and, of course, the Parliament, which in its time was the largest building in Hungary. It may no longer be the biggest, but for us Hungarians it's still the nicest, though it is rare to find days when it has no scaffolding anywhere - time has got the better of the soft limestone from Sóskút, so it is slowly being replaced by a harder variety from Süttő. The construction of Parliament required a huge investment. The original estimate involved 18.5 million gold crowns, but in the end the cost was double. Following the groundbreaking in 1885, 176,000 cubic metres of earth were moved, 40 million bricks were put in place and more than half a million stones were carved to make the building captivating. As the gigantic work progressed they tried peto use only Hungarian materials and Hungarian technology, and to employ Hungarian specialists, so the Parliament not only provided a 'house' for the homeland but also boosted several industries.

After clambering down from the stone ledge and continuing on our way, we soon bump into another stone lion as we reach Margaret Bridge. This one is bigger and more awesome than those by the Chain Bridge, but it's on its own and stands as a monument in memory of the Hungarian soldiers who lost their lives during the siege of Przemyśl fortress during the First World War.

From Margaret Bridge there's a real picture-postcard scene, particularly if you stop in the middle and look back to the city. Parliament is to the left, Castle Hill to the right, while the bridges, the Danube and the winding city are in between. No wonder that Budapest's Danube bank became part of the World Heritage more than 20 years ago! It is an unparalleled spectacle, one you can never tire of. It makes you quite appreciative of this sometimes crazy place.

On the other side of the bridge there is Margaret Island, which in the heat is also tempting with its fountains and shaded alleys. There is virtually no traffic in this huge park - a bus runs only now and then, though naturally there are many people on scooters and bicycles, not to mention tricycles and even quadricycles. In order to be able to complete this walk along the Danube bank, it's perhaps advisable to spare your energy and resist the island's temptations ... at least you can always come back the following day.

At the end of Margaret Bridge, back in Pest, let's turn right where you can again see the promenade with chestnut trees where we were strolling, only this time from the other side of the river. It will also be a pleasant experience, at least once you've managed to struggle across the moving line of cars and step over the railing, after which you can go down to the bottom of the steps where it is lovely just to sit around, talk or simply watch the water, inhale the real Danube 'scent' and bask in the sun. The River Danube is allegedly the world's most 'international' river. It flows through ten countries, which is a nice performance for such an ancient waterway. Of its 2850 kilometres we Hungarians can only lay claim to 417 - on the left bank not even that many - but we are still grateful for it.

At Parliament it's a good idea to leave the bank even if you don't feel like it, but only for as long as it takes to view the building from the other side. You used to be able to approach it quite closely, to go up the steps so that in the end only a door would separate you from seeing how the matters of the country were decided. But times have changed and the demands of security prevail here, too. The notso- long-ago still friendly doors can now be admired only at a respectful distance. Nevertheless, if time allows you can inspect the interior of Parliament in a group and with a guide. Some years ago even Tony Blair expressed wonder at all the beauty, although, due to his office, he had already seen quite a few parliaments. Hungary's 'Holy Crown' is kept here in the middle of the Cupola Hall surrounded by guards with serious and ceremonial faces - the sight still makes you gasp in awe. Perhaps your feet are beginning to feel like lead but don't give up, we're not far from our starting point. Continuing along the riverside there may be a couple of vacant benches not yet occupied by embracing lovers or weary dog walkers. What we can find is a row of bronze shoes at the edge of the embankment, placed here in memory of those who were shot into the river during World War II and who left nothing behind but pairs of worn shoes.

We are slowly approaching the Academy of Sciences and its familiar neighbourhood. If you have any strength left, let's walk through the small subway under the Chain Bridge to The Corso, the popular promenade on the other side. Here is everyone's favourite statue, a small image of a child. It took some time for people to realise it was a girl, and not just any girl but a princess. Well ... we already liked it as a boy. Today tourists love standing by the statue for a quick snapshot. Our royal princess has become a real photogenic friend.

We've come a long way and we deserve a bit of rest, perhaps on a terrace of one of the hotels where we can sip a large, scintillating, cold beer. Should you desire something more 'economical', you can simply sit on a bench and there you have Castle Hill all before you in its splendour. The entire view is absolutely beautiful! Allow me also to settle down. It's good to stretch my legs a bit and loosen my laces. I enjoyed the walk. Thank you for accompanying me!

A. N.