As early as 1841, Lajos Kossuth, one of the most prominent figures of Hungarian history, the temporary head of state during the 1848-49 Hungarian War of Independence, who declared the dethronement of the Habsburg dynasty, urged that an avenue of trees be created as far as the 'City Forest' so that the city of Pest would at last look like a capital and the "narrow, ugly Király Street" could be avoided. Although he never saw it himself, thirty years later his plan was implemented. He was also right - contemplating the avenue lined by trees, shops, mansions and museums, there is no doubt that we are in a proper capital city.
What the Champs-Élysée is fo Paris, Andrássy Avenue is for Budapest. The elegant shops and restaurants would fit any metropolitan city, yet the old appearance and the incomparable atmosphere betray that we are certainly in Budapest. If we want to do some shopping or look for a restaurant with white tablecloths and discretely hushed waiters we should set off from the direction of Deák Square. Both sides of the avenue are skirted with designer shops: stores of Alberto Guardiani, Trussardi and Louis Vuitton, elegant hairdressing salons and exclusive clubs follow one after the other, but Miklós Ybl's masterpiece, Budapest's beautiful Opera House, which held its first performance in 1884, is also situated here. The more than 120- year-old building is not only the scene of operas and ballets but the prominent Hungarian elite also holds its most elegant balls here. The building worthy of the Opera House on the opposite side will soon be transformed into a fivestar hotel, having until recently housed the Ballet Institute.
The section between Deák Square and Oktogon is the busiest part of Andrássy Avenue. Here can be found several attractive streets branching off. For example, the 'Pest Broadway', Nagymező Street, noted for its theatres, and Liszt Ferenc Square, Budapest's largest open entertainment area, with its restaurants, pubs, wine bars and cafés. Oktogon, only a stone's throw away, is of an octagonal shape as its name implies. It was a single huge pit at the time of the avenue's construction. It became Oktogon later and with its changes of name has reflected the turns of Hungarian history - it was called Mussolini Square before 1945, then during the Soviet era it changed for 7 November Square and it was only in 1990 when it returned to its original, politically neutral and more precise name of Oktogon. Here Andrássy Avenue is intersected by the Great Boulevard, whose bustle and pulsation echo and at the same time close this section of the Avenue. The next larger stretch runs between Oktogon and Kodály Körönd. The road is wider here, with two separate service roads and double pavements. Thus it presents more the feel of an avenue. People take a stroll here. Visibly they do not hurry anywhere, but have brought babies in prams and flapping-eared dogs for the sake of a walk. The buildings are also not so tall and if we dare stand in the middle of the road - which we don't recommend, only perhaps on a zebra crossing for a moment when the lights are green - we can see how imposing it is as the wide and elegant avenue leads up to Heroes' Square.
But let's wait with that because beforehand it is worth slowing down and looking at the building of the Academy of Arts and then sitting in the Lukács Café for a real slice of traditional cake. Also on our way is the House of Terror. Easy to recognize due to its extended wall frame, which has caused much debate, the museum houses exhibitions about fascist and communist atrocities. It is situated at No. 60 Andrássy Avenue, the former formidable headquarters of the notorious and feared Sate Defence Authority, its cellar prison having witnessed various forms of torture and cruelties.
When we have reached the Körönd, let's not forget to raise our eyes. The decorated façades of the mansions built here in the 1870s are real curiosities. The place deserves a little rest, although the end of the road is not far away. Nevertheless, we have got tired by now and the plane and horse-chestnut trees planted in front of the mansions relax the eyes.
After a few sips of water we can set off for the most elegant and aristocratic section of Andrássy Avenue, which is bordered by mansions and palaces. Some have turned into embassies or museums, for example Kogart gallery with its restaurant and lecture hall or the Hopp Ferenc Museum of Oriental Art. Yet independently of their present function, all the buildings have preserved their refined charm. At this end of Andrássy Avenue it is not difficult to imagine what it was like when young baronesses in their lace gloves and with their nicely decorated parasols rode to the City Park in their carriages. Without a carriage let us rather walk on. We will soon reach Heroes' Square, Hungary's largest and most spectacular public space, where besides the history-relating Millennium Monument we can see two illustrious museums, the Hall of Arts and the Museum of Fine Arts. From here it is worth looking back down the avenue. It is a marvellous spectacle with real treasures. No wonder Andrássy Avenue was included in the World Heritage List in 2002. Let us not walk on the way back. By the time we have rached the quiet green of the City Park, away from the bustle of the city centre, we really must have become tired - but not only for that reason. Let us get on the underground train, the pride of Budapest residents, which runs under Andrássy Avenue, at least for a few stops. This, the first underground line on the continent, was inaugurated by Emperor Francis Joseph in 1896 and despite its advanced age it is still fast, extremely attractive and always on time. It feels good when we can sit down on a seat and stretch our legs having walked the length of Andrássy Avenue.
Anna Nagy
Horizon magazin 2007/09