You can now travel from Budapest to Split in just one hour. Although this Croatian city is located on the coast, it is by no means a typical resort. The city's main appeal lines in its unique history, in its colourful cultural and sporting programmes that change every season, and not least in its unparalleled Mediterranean atmosphere.
The capital of Dalmatia, split is located on a peninsula in southern Croatia, with many smaller and larger islands scattered along its coast. Inland it is bordered by the barren Kozjak and Mosor mountain ranges, while towards the sea the mountainous Marjan peninsula, with its rich and dense vegetation, functions as the green lung of the city. The coastline around Split is indented by countless bays, and the sea picturesquely changes between various shades of blue and green.
Greek settlers were the first to found a city here. They were followed by the Romans, who built the city of Salona, which they intended as the seat of the province of Dalmatia. This was the birthplace of Diocletian, whose palace, built 1700 years ago, would provide shelter for the residents of nearby villages from invaders in later times. Raids by the Avars were followed by attacks by the Tatars, the Venetians and the Turks. With the refugees who fled from these invasions, the city's population grew. The Venetian Republic was overthrown by Napoleon, and after his fall the region became part of Austria.
It belonged to Yugoslavia after1918. The most dynamic development in Split occurred after the Second World War when it was Croatia's and Yugoslavia's largest port and trading centre. Split has been the second largest city in independent Croatia since 1991. It boast its own international airport and railway connections, and almost every city on the Adriatic is within reach of its port.
A Medieval Church with a Sphynx
With an average of seven hours of sunshine a day, the palm trees and cacti along the Riva promenade grow to an enormous size. The quiet bay of the old town, with its harbour, park and café, is a popular meeting place. The old city walls that once formed part of Diocletian's palace were used by locals when building their own homes. The combination of modern houses and antique columns provides a fascinating sight. This mixing of styles is characteristic of the entire old town. The palace, a magnificent monument that prompted UNESCO to declare Split a World Heritage site, is in fact the city's downtown area. As the inhabitants of the city moved into the building to find refuge from various conquerors, they crammed the large spaces between the gardens and the walls to form their own houses. Thus today a Roman colonnade rubs shoulders with an Egyptian sphinx, an early medieval church and medieval houses, forming a unique and enchanting confusion of historical styles.
Dawn at the Fish Market
As cars have been banned from the entire old town, the district can only e discovered by taking a stroll through the narrow streets among the Dalmatian stone houses. The best time to visit the fish market is early in the morning, just like the locals do. You will get a good idea here of what will be served up on your plate later when you go to sample on of the local fish specialities (Tip: Konoba Vasos, Ban Mladenova 7). There is much more entertainment awaiting after lunch. No matter when you visit the city, you will be spoilt for choice among the large variety of cultural events. The most famous is the Summer Festival, but there are countless operas, theatre performances, pop and classical music concerts on offer all year round.
Ivanisevic, the Hero
The residents of Split are very proud of their city and have strong national feeling. Sport occupies a special place in their hearts and tennis champion Goran Ivanisevic is regarded as a national hero here. The city's water polo, basketball, football and rowing teams attract large crowds of supporters, too. The locals also have great respect for their heritage. The ancient building are lovingly maintained and there are very few English shop signs. Most of the inhabitants of Split make their living from trade, agriculture and transportation. The city is tourist friendly: as the locals say, their lifestyle is such that visiting tourists find it easy to pick up the rhythm of the city.
Short excursions from Split
If you have only a few hours to discover the area, the Roman ruins at the entrance to the old town, around which the later districts were built, should be top of you list.
This ideally located city is within easy (and affordable) reach of many attractive destinations. Ferries will take you to some of the nearby islands in just 50 minutes, for the price of a coffee.
Those who have time for a longer excursion can even take a trip to Venice by boat, or catch one of the regular ferries to the Italian cities of Ancona or Pescara.
Makarska, located south of Split, is the ideal place for beach lovers, but car rental is recommended to get there. Las but not least, the spectacular walled town of Trogir, another UNESCO World Heritage site, is a gem that should not be missed.