It is hard to believe that Sarajevo, the site of the 1984 Winter Olympics, used to be a symbol of the new era of understanding and peace in the Balkans. The city hoped the Olympics would forever wipe away the stain of its previous best-known moment in history - the 1914 assassination of Austrian Archduke Ferdinand, the spark that lit World War I.

The Olympic Stadium, however, was shelled repeatedly during the war and though it has been rebuilt, a massive cemetery containing the graves of 10,000 victims lies nearby.
Today, Sarajevo is a symbol of the brutality that engulfed the region. For more than three years, Serbian artillery in surrounding hills and mountains pounded the city, killing civilians and reducing the city to rubble. There are signs of renewal, however: Hotels and cafes have begun to reopen, and a normal bustle is returning to the streets. On many evenings, you'll see residents walking the Ferhadija, a pedestrian-only area in the city center. Outdoor events, including an important film festival, are held during summer. The National Theatre and the Center for Contemporary Arts are in business again. Despite these measures of progress, Sarajevo has a way to go before it will be ready for casual sightseers.

Previously the city sights were the Princip Bridge (where the archduke was shot), Husref Bey Mosque, the 14th-century Serbian Orthodox church and the Oriental Bascarsija bazaar (one of the few places untouched by Serbian shells). During the war, the ski resort town of Pale (20 mi/32 km east of the city) served as the seat of the self-styled Bosnian Serb government.

Note: Be extremely careful if you visit the former Serb-held suburbs of Sarajevo (we advise against going there at all). There are still unmarked land mines -- and volatile emotions -- in the area.



 
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