The capital of Albania is nearly halfway between Rome and Istanbul. The influence of both cities can be sensed on its architecture, as well as of the former Soviet Union. Tirana has a 400 thousand population, and there is not too much to see - and those are all on the main road.
Most visitors start their sightseeing with Skander Bey Place in the city centre - where Hotel Dajti is as well as the Ethem Bey mosque built in 1793- Next to it the clock tower from 1830. In the past, the statue of Enver Hodja used to be between the museum and the State Bank, on a large marble plinth. The statue was pulled down, and markets are held in its place today. It is worthwhile to explore the nearby market.
In the capital is the National History Museum, Albania's largest museum that can be found next to the city's tallest building, the 15-storey Tirana Hotel. A special feature of the hotel is the giant mosaic on the front of the building. To the East, Palace of Culture, with its typical Soviet features can be seen. The Palace accommodates a theatre, restaurant, coffee house and an art gallery. The National Library is also here. At the other side of the Lana River is the former Enver Hodja Museum, the ultra-modern Congress Palace and the Archaeological Museum.
Tibor Saroveczki, the Tirana regional manager writes about the typical everyday life of the locals:
On the square, the Albanian ass is standing in his classical position. His ears are hanging down, his head is heavy, and, from time to time, he wags his tails. Who knows, he might even be lamenting. Around him, the city traffic is busy; bicycles, mopeds are running around from all directions. Pedestrians cross the road at red lights, and (in line with the Albanian Highway Code) they firmly look down to prevent the inadvertent noticing of the cars approaching. If they looked up, they could even see the large movements of the policeman directing the traffic - obviously, contrary to the traffic light signals. After all, it does not matter; nobody takes notice of him, anyway.
On the kerb, money exchange dealers finger thick bundles of banknotes whilst the whole square echoes their continuous offers of "doitshmark", "leera" and "dollar". The policeman is watching them indifferently, takes out a cigarette and asks if one of them could give him a light.
The official average income is under 100 US dollars per month, meaning those who have official income at all. Albanian men are very industrious, by eight o'clock in the morning; some of them are already sitting in the coffee house having his coffee. Up to six in the evening. By the hundreds; the same places, the same faces, in the morning, in the evening. It is quite possible that they interrupt their rest for a minute or two, to have a stretch, or put their order for stocking up their little sunflower or shoelace store, which is like a small room opening from the street, furnished by a counter made up from a door across two orange crates. But not for long, soon they sit back to discuss the daily politics and events with their mates.
Population is continuously decreasing; mainly the men are trying their luck in foreign lands - seeking work and means of living. Six million Albanians live scattered abroad, twice as many as in the homeland.